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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.